The Bear

Seven fishes, not enough chairs and a family who cannot be in the same kitchen without something going off. This is the flashback hour of The Bear, set at the Berzatto family Christmas, years before the restaurant: a loud, sweary, overloaded dinner where everybody has something to say and nobody should have said it. Jamie Lee Curtis and Jon Bernthal both won Emmys for it. If your own Christmas dinner has ever gone sideways over the gravy, some of this will feel uncomfortably familiar. It is not a cosy watch, but it is a brilliant one: pour something stiff and save it for after the little ones are in bed.